Newsletter
PRESIDENT’S POINT OF VIEW
We started the new year with a bang and I want to thank everyone who assisted with the BMAC club booth at the Denver Motorcycle Show and Swap Meet on Jan 28/29.
Ralph Osterburg and his friend Damien Showed up Friday to help with the move-in and set up of the new club banner. I want to stress how much I appreciate the help as carting all the gear around by myself is a colossal chore.
Denise and Bob Wendl helped me out on Saturday and spent a few hours manning the booth, passing out flyers and chatting with people. Ralph was a champ and came back Sunday morning for a few hours and our good buddy and trusty VP, Dana came up on Sunday too, spending the better part of the day at the show and working the crowd. For their assistance each one of them had free passes for the day.
On a whim I entered my 1966 Sears Sabre in the show and ended up with a 3rd place in the “Antique Restored” class. Sadly though, I broke one of my new year’s resolutions. One of the show attendees left a card on my bike asking if wanted to buy a Puch and I ended up with two old bikes. My wife has had enough and is sending me to Kansas for a month as punishment. As a result of my imprudence I will miss the upcoming Old School Motorcycle Show and Swap Meet in Colorado Springs this year.
Fear not though. The BMAC will rise to the occasion and dominate the show just as we did last year.
Keep up the great work and start pulling the old iron out of the moth balls. This is going to be a stellar year for the BMAC.
Todd Wallis
Dana’s Motorcycle Tips
Crack Repair “101”
This repair works well on many types of materials such as aluminum, sheet-metal or plastic. It works best on parts with a large surface area like engine covers, side covers, guards etc.
This repair is for parts that have developed a crack(s), but haven’t broken all the way thru yet. It’s not recommended if part has cracked all the way thru (.i.e. broken into pieces!). I will cover that in a separate tip coming soon. The repair is almost as strong as welding if done properly. It requires
some non-precision drilling which can be done with a hand drill, but a drill press is recommended. We are using
my favorite two part epoxy, JB Weld!
First locate both ends of the crack (end arrows in photo #1).
At each end drill a hole all the way thru using a 1/16” drill bit.
The holes spread out the force and will prevent the crack from spreading further.
The next step is optional, only necessary if part being repaired is a load/stress bearing part. In this example it was, because it contained the kick- starter mechanism.
On the inside surface using 1/8” drill to make blind holes half way thru the material, along both sides of the crack, about every half inch or so (dots in photo #2). These holes will give the epoxy additional “bite” and help hold the part together.
Use 80 grit sandpaper on the inside of the part to roughen the surface along the crack and about 2 inches out from either side of the crack.
•NOTE: Take your time as it is very important to get the surface very rough and clean, to give the epoxy as much clean surface area to attach to.
Clean surface with alcohol/solvent then let dry.
Mix up equal parts of JB weld (follow mixing directions) then apply across crack(s). (photo #3) Make sure to fill all holes you drilled, we don’t want the cover to leak!
Let the epoxy totally cure (one to two days). Then you can polish the part to a like new shine! (photo #4) (Well, you know me, that’s my favorite color, shiny!)
PHOTO #1 - OUTSIDE COVER WITH
CRACK NOTED IN RED
PHOTO #2 - INSIDE COVER
STRESS DRILL POINTS IN BLUE
PHOTO #3 INSIDE COVER
(JB WELD APPLIED)
PHOTO #4 - FINISHED OUTSIDE COVER
BETTER THAN NEW!
ANNUAL DUES FOR 2012
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THE EASY WAY TO REMOVE RUST FROM A FUEL TANK
Ken French's Electrolysis Setup
I tried out this electrolysis process on my rust fuel tank and she cleaned right up. For those of you who are on a budget it will cost you next to nothing to clean your tank. First of all you will need a plastic 5 gallon bucket, add 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. This is important – It’s Washing Soda not baking soda (see note 1 below).
Fill the bucket with water and mix it well. Pull the tank and drain the fuel. Remove the petcock and wash out the tank with lots of water. Fashion a cover to block the petcock orifice. I used a strip of 1/8" aluminum and used an old inner tube as a gasket. I set the tank on a piece of carpet and blocked it up to get it as level as possible. I then filled the tank with the washing soda solution. Then I took a coat hanger and fashion the sacrificial anode. You say what???? Ok this is the trickiest part of the procedure – see photo below.
A little background on how electrolysis works (see actual photos below). It’s very simple really. As current passes through an object it moves from negative to positive, so what you are doing is passing a current through the rust on the tank, which breaks its bond, and the rust then flows and attaches itself to the positive charge on the sacrificial anode. Or at least it releases the rust from the tank and floats around in the washing soda solution. The idea with the sacrificial anode is to insure that it does not touch the tank anywhere, you must insure it only come in contact with the washing soda solution or you will have a direct short.
For my project I found a nice little plastic cap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 1" apart. I then took an iron (not aluminum or brass) coat hanger and bent it over and over until I had four loops on one end that spread about 1" when grouped together (see fig. 1 below). Think about the business end of a fork that you eat with, that’s what it should look like. Then about 4" back from the business end of the fork make a 90-degree bend in the two wires and run them up through the plastic cap.
Put the sacrificial anode into the tank and spin it around to insure the anode is not hitting anywhere on the tank (no short circuits) (see fig 2 below). Then using a 12-volt battery charger hook the positive lead to the sacrificial anode and the negative lead to the fuel tank. (I used the mounting flange that sits under the seat - see figs 3 and 4 below).
Let her cook for several days. Mine took three days. I pulled the anode twice a day and cleaned it with a wire brush. I have a small battery charger so it may take less time with a larger charger. Anyway my tank is back on and this morning I rode her into work and she never skipped a beat.
Note 1: ARM & HAMMER® Super Washing Soda is 100% sodium carbonate and is used as a laundry booster and general household cleaner. ARM & HAMMER® Baking Soda is 100% sodium bicarbonate and has a myriad of household cleaning, personal care, and deodorizing uses, as well as being a leavening agent.
Editor’s note: I have personally tested this procedure and got excellent results. However as a disclaimer, “ Use this procedure at your own risk”. The BMAC (or I) take no liability if you ruin a gas tank or other metal parts following this process. Also, always practice proper safety techniques when working with chemicals such as wearing safety glasses, rubber gloves and operating in a space with good ventilation. Always keep children and pets away from chemicals at all times! And please dispose of chemicals in an “environmentally friendly” manner.
Article, illustrations and photos used with permission of Ken French!
EDITORS TANK PROJECT
Since I had a spare rusted fuel tank for a WM-20 I decided to test the process out. Found Washing Soda at the local King Spoopers store (about $5 for a really big box).
I was able to use some spare petcock parts to make plugs for the gas taps so the tank was very liquid tight. However, to contain the mess and also to later try external rust removal I put the whole tank inside a plastic storage box (Walmart) which kept my work area clean.
I used hot water to dissolve the washing soda (increases the chemical reaction) and found that the lid of a "commuter coffee cup" had a perfect fit to the tank opening. You will have to scrounge for a plug depending upon your tank opening size. I drilled a couple of holes in the lid and ground off the paint from an iron coat hanger (it won't work if you leave the paint on) to make the sacrificial anode.
After I bent up the anode assembly I put it in the fuel tank and used an ohm meter to make sure I was not in contact with the tank shell (short circuit prevention test).
I set the battery charger to 12 volt and high current setting and filled the tank with the washing soda solution and turned on the power. The initial current was full scale on the meter and I could hear the transformer humming stongly but that was ok since no short had been located in the setup.
I suggest you do this operation on a concrete floor and keep it away from any flamable objects just as a precaution in case the transformer should overheat.
I let it boil for 2 days and then drained the scummy mess from the tank and rinsed it with fresh water, followed by a blow dry with the compressor to get moisture out of the tank that would restart the rusting process on the fresh metal surface. It was amazing how well it worked.
I only had one stubborn patch of rust left that would have responded to some manual scraping followed by another rust removal bath but it came out really nice. Perfect for a relining of the interior as insurance for the future.
I filled the tub with a fresh batch of washing soda solution and filled the interior of the tank also and attached the electrodes to a sacrificial anode (iron plate) in the bottom of the tank and isolated the tank from the plate in the bottom of the tub by setting it on top of a plastic soft drink bottle carrier. I was able to submerge the whole gas tank within the tub.
Once again, I turned on the power and let it cook for a couple days and it did a great job of removing the rust at the atomic level (molecular bonds) rather than attacking the surface with an abrasive grinding pad which would remover more metal from the tank.
For follow up one could do the final cleaning prior to bondo and priming for painting with some abrasive paper.
All in all, it was a very successful process and I am going to be using it a lot in the future for cleaning other rusty parts during a restoration project
Whiskyman
See "Before and After" photos below of my tank rust removal project
TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE - PORTRAIT OF A LEGEND
Be sure to see the "Whats Good to Read" below for the latest review of a great book on the Triumph Bonneville.
Whiskyman
BOOK REPORTS – WHAT’S GOOD TO READ?
The Man Who Would Stop At Nothing Long Distance Motorcycling's Endless Road Melissa Holbrook Pierson W.W. Norton & Company ISBN978-0-393-07904-3
A few years ago I read a great book by Melissa Holbrook Pierson titled "The Perfect Vehicle" It was very enjoyable and is also one I would recommend. This book is about her encounter with John Charles Ryan, a member of Iron Butt Riders Assoc.
Triumph Bonneville – Portrait of a Legend By James Mann and Mick Duckworth. Published by Haynes Publishing (ISBN-978 0 85733 017 8).
By JoAnn Bortles (ISBN 978-0-7603-2078-5). How to Paint Your Motorcycle is, in my opinion, a really excellent guide to the beginner on how to approach this kind of work with an eye to providing many practical helpful tips, as well as warnings on the many pitfalls to be encountered that can make or break a paint project. And the author JoAnn Bortles (of Crazy Horse Painting) is an amazing lady who really knows her stuff around motorcycles. What I want to know is where were women like this to meet when I was young and single and building bikes? One of the things that appeals most to me is her copious use of photos to illustrate the minute details that must be considered to doing a really good job of painting a bike. There is more than adequate written description throughout, including many handy tips and tricks along with warnings on the kinds of bonehead errors most beginners are prone to make so you can take your project along from stage-to-stage by reading the appropriate chapter as you go. But most important for people like me who are “visual learners”, this book excels by providing clear and detailed photos of exactly what to do and how to do it so your chances of messing up are virtually eliminated! The chapters are well organized in sequence - starting with the basics of setting up your paint shop/area, equipment selection, and then walking you through the complete process from proper frame and sheet metal molding (Bondo to us old timers), priming the parts, selection and application of paint products, and detailed painting techniques including an extensive description of custom colors and exotic paint schemes worthy of a build-off quality job. If you are serious about learning to paint your own motorcycle parts you need to read this book first. After many hours learning by the cut-and-try method in my shop turning out marginal results, I realize how much time I could have saved if I had read this before I started my experiments. More important, every mistake I ever made (and a few more I have not had a chance to make yet) were addressed with tips telling me exactly how to avoid the messes I created learning on my own. In 169 pages (a couple evenings of leisure reading) you can really prepare yourself for the next project you decide to tackle by yourself. My only criticism of the book is that the author is clearly a fan of “House of Kolor” products and focuses exclusively on their use to get successful results. Not all such a bad thing since there are probably an infinite variety of competing products, and to try and cover all the options would only serve to further confuse the beginner. If you are like me, I go with something that is recommended to work by the experts and when I get smarter, I learn what options I can substitute that are more readily available or offer a better value. Crawl before you walk, and walk before you can run. For me, the most important thing I came away with from reading this book is that the really “Great” painters are not only experienced technicians but also true artists with a talented eye for color, shape and form. It also clearly got me to understand that when you don’t have these gift of all these elements, you are well advised to take your really important work to a professional if you want great results. And if you go that route, this book will provide you with an understanding of what level of effort must be executed to produce a first class job which should help mute your whining when presented with the bill. Good work don’t come cheap! And, when you park your ride in front of your favorite biker watering hole and receive the envious stares from the other riders coveting your new paint job, it will further confirm the common wisdom that “you get what you pay for”. But also important is that if you do decide to take your work out to be done by a Pro, this book will allow you to now communicate with them on a more advanced level by understanding the kinds of options you have on materials and their application to get the results you want when the day is done. At a mere $29.95 this will be some of the best money you ever spent before taking on another motorcycle painting project. By Timothy Remus and Garry Chitwood and published by Wolfgang Publications (ISBN-13:978-929133-42-0). This is an interesting and useful book for both the first-time as well as the experienced motorcycle restorer taking a basket case Triumph project from start to finish. The authors decided to showcase two projects – a 1963 and a 1969 Bonneville. Their premise for selecting these models was that in their opinion, “many enthusiasts feel that the best of the Triumph twins were those produced between 1963-1970” so these two were selected to illustrate the book. There is sufficient overlap of information that other later models being restored and the many generic restoration techniques presented provides universal value no matter what marque you are considering. Also, they hit upon a need missing in most service manuals that have lot’s of specifications but poor quality grainy photos which usually don’t show the “tricks” needed to easily get things apart and back together again. As they state in the Introduction, “Service manuals are great and the good ones convey a wealth of information. You might even want one to accompany this how-to book. What a typical service manual is missing though, is enough photos and illustrations to truly illuminate the subject, especially for non-professional mechanics”. And, with over 450 color photos, this 144 page book is able to show the little details omitted in most shop manuals that are critical to doing the job right the first time. I have had an opportunity to either partially or fully restore two Triumph Bonneville’s under the supervision of a professional motorcycle mechanic, and some of the really critical but seldom addressed fine points of a restoration I learned from him hands-on are shown in this publication. So is it worth the suggested retail price of $29.95? In my opinion I would say “YES” for both the first time restorer planning a project as well as the old-timer who might still learn a few tricks from this gem but you would be well advised to still have a copy of the original factory service manual on hand to provide all the torque specs and other details needed but not directly addressed in this book
Here are some books of interest to the members of the BMAC – check them out!.
After an eleven year break from motorcycling and then a failed marriage she was reintroduced to motorcycling. Her story is about him, the Iron Butt riders and what they do. She has a deep understanding of why we ride and is able to put it all into words. It is far more than superficial. Her stories about John Ryan's unbelievable rides are well done, as are other short descriptions of seemingly impossible endurance rides.
She has an intellectual understanding of what drives people to get involved with the extreme sport of Iron Butt Riding. She also mixes in her own reintroduction to riding. Moto Guzzi riders will find extra pleasure in her riding experiences. The book is only 190 pages long and very difficult to lay down once started. I hope you enjoy!
Gary Ammarell
Has there ever been a British bike enthusiast who has not owned, or wished to own, a Triumph Bonneville? I have a 1971 Bonnie living in my shed and it’s one of my favorite “riders” seeing daily service around town. Hopping on that machine and heading out on the road is just like stepping into a time machine for me. The great handling and distinctive exhaust note (never to be confused with the sound of a Harley or “metric” bike) turns heads and just plain sounds cool, so I was more than enthusiastic to have the opportunity to review this book.
First of all, this is a nicely illustrated “coffee table” worthy book that even the wife won’t object displaying in the living room. There are over a couple hundred color photos contained in this 240 page publication that illustrate the progression of the Bonneville from it’s inception in late 1958 through to the present day 2010 model.
For you trivia lovers looking for some interesting lore to trot out at a cocktail party, the background story is that in September 1956 a Texan, Johnny Allen, achieved a top speed of over 214 mph in a streamlined motorcycle powered by a highly tuned 650 cc Triumph twin engine at the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. In 1959 Triumph decided to capitalize on this claim to fame and chose to name its new 650 cc twin motorcycle the “Bonneville” - and has kept the name until today since it has spawned a legendary motorcycle.
The book is broken down into 23 sections tied to significant model developments over this 5 decade progression of design and refinement.
Starting with the 1954 Tiger 110, the authors walk us forward through the 1959 T 120 (early and late models), 1960 & 1961 T 120 UK & General Export, 1962 & 1963 T 120R US, 1965 T 120 Thruxton, 1965 T 120C Competition Sports, 1966 T 120 UK & T 120C TT Special, 1968 T 120 UK & General Export and T120R US, 1969 T 120R US, 1979 T 120RT, 1972 T12OV UK Show Special 1977 T 140J Silver Jubilee, 1982 T 140LE Royal, 1983 T140W AV TSS & T 140ES TSX, 1988 LF Harris Bonneville, and finally the 2010 Bonneville “Sixty”.
Along with a brief historical summary of features and differences from prior models, each section has a number of great photos. So if you are shopping for one of these models or are in need of some guidance on a restoration, you will see it in good detail from a number of angles. And, each section also has a summary of key specifications (dimensions, weight, fluid capacity, HP, etc) so you can add to your personal knowledge of these factors to amaze your biker buddies next time you sit down with a beer to discuss “The Bonneville”.
I thought I knew a good deal about the Bonneville but after reading this book I have come to the realization that I really didn’t have even a basic grasp of the many models and developments that took place over its history. So, this book has proved to be an awesome resource which allows me to fill in the blanks in my knowledge of the topic. I think you will agree with me after you sit down with a copy and take the journey from the birth and development of this motorcycle to its present form which has become a legend in its own time.
A brief word on the authors is also appropriate to this review. James Mann the photographer has provided his expert work to over 40 car and bike books and owns a 1965 Triumph T100SC, so he is no stranger to the beast. Co-author Mick Duckworth has been writing about motorcycles for many decades and has been one of my favorite authors in the past, and with his current work in “Classic Bike” magazine so I was not disappointed with his treatment of the Bonneville in this book.
In summary if you have a passion for the Bonneville, this is a “must have” book for your collection and will provide many hours of entertainment and enlightenment on this legendary motorcycle.
Triumph Motorcycle Restoration
The Essential Buyers Guide to BSA 500 & 650 Twins
(ISBN 978-1-84584-136-2)
This is a small but interesting book written by FLAT OUT "Flat Out is a fascinating read to anybody interested in what goes on behind the scenes at Bonneville Speed Week and the quest to set a land speed record on the great salt sea there. You don’t have to be a racer to appreciate the accomplishments of these daredevils but if you are a speed freak then you will take pleasure in this true story. This is a "can't put it down" exciting account of a battle for the ultimate land speed record on 2-wheels, written in a down to earth style to which the reader can relate!" A center section of photos adds to the value of the book and aids the reader in understanding what an awesome accomplishment it is to go over 350 mph on two wheels. (ISBN 978-0-7603-3535-2) The Vincent in the Barn tells forty such stories – tales of motorcycle hunting dreams come true. From Ducati’s in basements to Vincent’s abandoned in sheds, Harleys in barns to Brit Bikes moldering behind urban garages, these are the stories that fuel every motorcyclist’s fantasies. The only difference? They are true! If you have every heard about a “Barn Fresh find” or had the good fortune of the actual experience of rescuing a classic bike from some dark dingy storage space after years of collecting dust and debris, you are going to love this book. With stories illustrated with photos from known collectors such as Jay Leno, to the legends of the motorcycle world such as the Brough Superior that belonged to T.E. Lawrence (The Lawrence of Arabia Bike), to eccentric collectors like desert rat Ron Adler who has reportedly over 10,000 motorcycles stored on his property in Rye Arizona, it’s a fascinating read!
by Rocky Robinson
(ISBN-13; 978-0-7603-3163-7)
THE VINCENT IN THE BARN: GREAT STORIES OF MOTORCYCLE ARCHAEOLOGY by Tom Cotter, Forward by David Edwards
It’s every motorcyclist’s dream. A friend or acquaintance says, “You know, there’s an old bike that’s been sitting in the garage for years”. The hunt is on. And rather than the usual worthless Hondazukimaha pile of hopeless oxidation, at the back of that barn you find a genuine classic, the motorcycle collectors dream.
Some of these books are available through Quayside Distribution Services/Motorbooks on line at www.qbookshop.com ..
Your editor: Jerry Pokorny
BMAC IS NOW ON FACEBOOK!
Even if you are not an avid Facebook user it's time you came into the 21st Century and signed up so you can join the British Motorcycle Association under the "Groups" section (icon of a few people together at the left or bottom of your facebook page).
So what's this all about you ask? Well, Facebook is another way to electronically network with others with a special interest - in this case British motorcycles. It's like sending a broadcast e-mail to a collection of addresses on your computer but since every member of this group also has other members in their network, and so on, and so on, our reach is much more extensive.
As of May we already have over 90 on board including BMAC members and sponsors and we are adding a lot of interesting folks from both the USA and overseas (Panther Owners Club for example).
The cool thing is that we can use this as a "chat room" to discuss technical issues or seek assistance and it can function as a bulletin board to post notices if you are seeking a rare old part made of "unobtainium" or have one to sell or give away. This is just another way to keep us in touch with others afflicted with a passion for Brit bikes and restoring, fixing and riding them.
So what does it cost? Nothing!
How hard is it? If you can open this website you have all the technical skills to participate.
Ok, "nuff said", just join facebook and go to the "Groups" link and look for the British Motorcycle Association of Colorado and get up to speed.
BMAC MEMBER PINS AVAILABLE
BMAC Member pins commemorating 5 and 10 years of membership are available free by contacting Brian House at 303-425-6385 and establishing your eligibility. New member pins for those with less than 5 years continuous paid membership are available at $5 ea, and a limited quantity of "Original" (charter member but we will sell to any member now) pins are available at $10 ea from the club by contacting John Scheibeler at 719-390-4727.
DON'T DRINK AND DRIVE!
A gentle reminder to all our members and friends. We made it to 2011 and we want to keep on riding for many more years so we encourage you to chose to refrain from drinking until you are done riding for the day and "the kick stand is down". We have enough challenges dodging teen drivers texting, soccer moms late for a game and little ol' blue hairs coming back from an afternoon tea with a big old Caddy full of their girlfriends wrapped up in conversation. And remember the #1 rule of riding a motorcycle on the road - YOU ARE INVISIBLE!
Ride Safe. Your Ed.
Whiskyman
AT THE ACE CAFE IN LONDON - CHEERS!
Find replacement motorcycle batteries and get free shipping
Find replacement motorcycle batteries and get free shipping
